Showing posts with label maintenance/wrenching. Show all posts
Showing posts with label maintenance/wrenching. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Tire repair




Today, I closely examined my rear tire since once again I found it at very low pressure after commuting home. The rear of the bike had felt a little squirrely on the way home. I did not find anything the first go around, went and got a more powerful flashlight and spotted it:

http://redlegsrides.blogspot.com/2008/01/i-need-to-replace-my-tires-again.html

Saturday, January 12, 2008

Honda NT650, more commonly referred to by the name it was given for the American market: the Hawk GT

http://www.hemmings.com/hmn/stories/2007/10/01/hmn_feature28.html

http://canyonchasers.net/
Workshop
Honda Hawk GT:
M4 Exhaust installation - Rated to increase horsepower more than the other pipes.
Cush-Drive replacement - Replacing these critical but often overlooked rubber bits.
Fox Shox or the CBR900 rear shock - suspension upgrade What's the better option?
t595 rear hugger installation A Hugger on a Hawk? Apparently it can be done!
General aesthetic changes All the little things I did to make my bike pretty.
Clipon selection Getting a handle on the bars.

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Monday, November 12, 2007

Garmin GPS Handlebar Mount

After staring at my Garmin i3’s socket-and-suction-cup mount for a couple of minutes, the answer turned out to be almost as easy as raiding the kid’s toy box.

It looked like all that was needed was a proper sized bead, a handlebar mount and a machine screw to join the two (Figs 1, 2, 3). So a look in the Yellow Pages revealed a local business whose sole existence was based on the selling of beads, and this was in a town of only 16, 000 people.

It looked like Beads-R-Us when I walked through the door. The woman who ran the place had heard it all before, so when I asked for a 17 mm diameter bead she didn’t even blink. And did the nice man want it in clay, glass, wood, ceramic or resin? How about colours and maybe place of origin?

She advised against wood because humidity can cause it to swell and make removal a risky job; glass and ceramics preclude any fine-tuning such as shaping and drilling.

I settled on a bike-matching burgundy resin bead of 17 mm in diameter (in one axis it was), all from the exotic location of Indonesia. So for $1.00 plus tax I was on my way. Grrrr, they came 5 to a bag. read more:...http://www.webbikeworld.com/garmin-gps/garmin-gps-handlebar-mount/

See other maintenance procedures: http://redlegsrides.blogspot.com/search/label/Maintenance

Brake Bleed


My First Brake Bleed for Maria

Today was the day I'd been prepping for about a month, with some of the parts bought months ago. I had, when I first bought the motorcycle a year ago, let the Beemer dealer whom I don't trust anymore to service my bike; do the annual brake bleeding of the wheel circuits and the bi-annual bleeding of the ABS control circuits in November.

So, Maria, my R1150RT was due again for the required annual bleeding of the wheel circuits for both front and rear brakes. read more: http://redlegsrides.blogspot.com/2007/11/my-first-brake-bleed-for-maria.html

Sunday, April 15, 2007

bench set carbs

http://www.chopperhouse.com/store/

Lay the carbs on a table, throttle plates (butterflies) up.
Stick a flat blade screwdriver in the throttle linkage to hold it open a tad.
Straighten out a small paperclip.
Use the idle speed adjuster to set the throttle butterflies so the paperclip just fits between the throttle plates and the carb body on the downhill side.
Adjust the screw between the carbs using the paperclip as a feeler gauge to get the throttle plates exactly the same.


I know, it sounds jackass as hell, BUT if you follow this procedure the motor will pull even vacuum on both jugs at 2300-2500 RPM someplace... which means at cruising speed the mirrors are still and clear. Vacuum (on my Morgan Carb Tune) will be even at 3 places, one at as much RPM as the idle adjuster will give ya, one at like 2400, and one closer to idle. Believe it or not I can static sync and the hook up the Morgan and the damned thing is dead on.

Spark Plugs

How I Read My Motorcycle's Spark Plugs
By Jim Noss http://www.whybike.com/motorcycle55.htm
This past weekend, I installed new spark plugs in my Toyota truck. So while it is fresh in my mind I wanted to cover the basics of how to read a spark plug, from the point of view of weekend mechanic.

First let's cover the basic functions of the spark plug.

The spark plug has two primary functions:

1. Ignite air/fuel mixture

2. Transfer heat from the combustion chamber

Now that you know what a spark plug does, lets discuss how to remove the plugs.

This may be common sense, but please allow the engine and exhaust to cool down prior to performing this task.

1. With the engine cooled, disconnect the spark plug wire caps where they connect to the plug inside the cylinder head. My advice is to very gently pull of the wire caps. On one set I yanked at the wire cap and stripped out the inside. This was dumb, but it allowed me to buy a nice set of red wires.

2. With the spark plug wire caps removed, I suggest cleaning out the area around the plug. The best way to do this is with compressed air to blow out the debris and crud that has accumulated. Please leave the plug in for this, the idea is that you want to remove the crud so it does not fall into the cylinder head when you extract the plug.

3. Grab your spark plug socket, I forget the correct size for the Victory plug, and remove the plug. It does not take much to loosen the plug since they are only tightened with 12 lb-ft (Foot Pounds) of torque.

4. Now is the time to perform basic inspection of the plug. A plug is the best indicator on how well your engine is performing.

First check for the following:

a. worn out electrodes
b. check the insulators for cracks
c. and check the color of the insulator.

As mentioned, the spark plug insulator color gives you an indication of how well your freedom engine is operating.

INSULATOR COLOR

- A light to light tan/gray color ... Condition is: GOOD. This light tan/gray color tells you that the spark plug is operating at optimum temperature and that the engine is in good condition.

- If the insulator is white .. Condition is LEAN and engine is running hot.

- When the insulator has a black sooty deposit or looks wet ... You have an Over-RICH condition and possible Oil control problems.

Installing the Spark Plugs

Whether you are replacing or installing a new spark plug, always check the spark plug cap with a gap or wire gauge. The gap specification is: 0.8mm (0.032in).

I run the NGK CPR6EA-9 spark plugs in my 204 Kingpin. 2003 Vegas bikes use model: NGK CR7EB

If you are disciplined, you will put anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads. I never have, but it is suggested.

The torque specifications for the plugs are: 16Nm or 12 lb-ft (Foot Pounds)

I hope this article has provided you with the basics on how to read the spark plugs from your motorcycle. Note that the same principle of reading the spark plug coloration applies to all engines, not just motorcycle engines.

Contributing author to Cycle Solutions http://www.cyclesolutions.net

and the Kingpin Cruisers http://www.kingpincruisers.net

For more information:

For more Motorcycle Maintenance articles:
Bearings

Before you ride - Motorcycle Maintenance

Caring For Your Motorcycle When It's Being Stored

Cleaning and Lubricating Motorcycle Chain

Do You Need a Part For Your Harley Davidson Motorcycle?

Frame Slider Design and Selection

How to Change a Spark Plug

How to clean a fuel screen on a Honda Rebel 250

How to Save Money on Motorcycle Repair

Keeping Used Motorcycle Parts As Good As New

Motorcycle Batteries

Motorcycle Parts - OEM or Aftermarket ?

Motorcycle Suspension Setup: Getting to Grips with a Black Art

Motorcycle Suspension: - A Troubleshooting Guide

Online Shopping for Motorcycle Accessories

Proper Installation Of Used Motorcycle Cables

Save money maintaining your motorcycle

Save Money on Used Motorcycle Parts

Saving Money Maintaining Your Motorbike

Secure Motorcycle Parts and Accessories Satisfaction

So, Your Starter Is Just Clicking

Take Care of Her and She'll Do the Same (How to start out the riding season)

Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)

The Cooling System

The Zen of Cleaning and Preparing Your Motorcycle After Winter Storage

Tips for Keeping up With Automotive Recalls

Two and Four Stroke Engines - Fast and Simple Answers

What Are Some Of The Different Types Of Welding?

When Looking to Purchase a Motorcycle Cover

Winter Season Come: Basic Steps to Winterize Your Bike

Friday, March 09, 2007

How To

How to Maintain Your Motorcycle
Maintaining a bike means regular pre-ride checks, monthly checks, and then yearly maintenance, including tune-ups.
Instructions
• STEP 1: Read the ehow "How to Check Your Motorcycle Before Riding".
• STEP 2: Check your tire treads at least once a week. Look for cuts and scrapes on your tires, which could cause a blowout. Add air pressure as needed. Many blowouts are the result of low air pressure.
• STEP 3: Investigate both of your wheels for loose or missing spokes. Check the rims for dents or cracks.
• STEP 4: Lift the wheel off the ground. Spin it and watch the motion. Listen for noise and move it to check for looseness.
• STEP 5: Inspect the controls for smooth operation, and watch for kinks or broken strands in your cables. Put lubricant on the mechanisms at either end of the cables.
• STEP 6: Check the sprockets for worn teeth and oil the chain .
• STEP 7: Watch out for missing or loose bolts, nuts or cotter pins. Keep your bike clean so it's easier to spot missing parts.
• STEP 8: Adjust your brakes so when they are applied fully, the wheel is locked (see your owner's manual for instructions).
Tips & Warnings
• Inspect your motorcycle carefully and fix things right away if you note potential trouble. That's the only way to spot problems before they cause an accident.
Follow a regular maintenance schedule using your Owner's Manual and the following list:
Instructions
• STEP 1: Check tire pressure and visually inspect the tires before every ride. Check the wheel bearings once a year.
• STEP 2: Check the oil level before each ride. Change the oil and filter at least every 2,000 miles. Your bike will love you if you chage the oil and filter every 1,000 miles.
• STEP 3: Check the coolant level (if applicable) before every ride. Change the coolant every 2 years.
• STEP 4: Check the brake cables and operation before every ride. Check the thickness of the pads and/or shoes every month. Change the brake fluid every 2 years.
• STEP 5: Check the suspension and chassis for loose nuts and bolts and leaks. Lubricate the swingarm bearing monthly. Change the fork oil every 2 years.
• STEP 6: Replace the spark plugs every year. Replace the spark plug wires every 2 years.
• STEP 7: Check and adjust the engine valves yearly.
• STEP 8: Check and adjust and lubricate the chain before every ride.
• STEP 9: Repalce the air filter every year.

http://www.ehow.com/how_8528_maintain-motorcycle.html

Saturday, December 30, 2006

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